Who Are The "Godfathers Of Techwear" In All Countries
Jul 12, 2021
With the continuous advancement of fabric technology and ergonomics, as well as the continuous improvement of people's requirements for comfort, military and outdoor elements are gradually integrated into daily wear. The combination of technology and clothing seems to be the main theme of the development of clothing nowadays.
"Techwear style", as a word frequently appeared in the trend circle in recent years, gives people the impression that it will always be "cold tones, complicated functions, superior performance, and hidden mystery." This narrow "techwear" is actually derived from the word "機能服" (きのうふく) in Japanese. It is a style of dressing derived from the works of Cyberpunk in Japan. It is called in English "Urban Techwear".
Cyberpunk is a combination of "Cybernetics" (cybernetics) and "Punk" (punk). This branch of literature was born in the 1980s. At that time, the rapid development of technology and the neglect of "humanities" made people think about technology. Relationship with humans.
According to the standard proposed by the "Father of Cyberpunk" William Ford Gibson-"Combination of Lowlife and High Tech" (Combination of Lowlife and High Tech), the background of cyberpunk stories mostly takes place in advanced technology. A future that coexists with the collapse of society. Therefore, the functionality that can withstand harsh environments and futuristic visual effects have become the standard equipment of "techwear clothing".
"Hidden" is also a major visual feature. With the rapid development of network technology and monitoring of urban life in every corner, people not only long for physical protection, but also pursue a sense of spiritual security. Therefore, these "ninjas shuttled in the city" are generally tightly covered.
Nowadays, functional seeds are spreading around the world. However, only industry pioneers who are responsible for education can be called "godfathers". Let's take a look at who are the "godfathers of techwear" in various countries.
When it comes to "techwear", the first thing that comes to mind is often the hallmark brand ACRONYM. After all, in a sense, ACRONYM can be regarded as a narrow definition of "techwear style".
In 1994, Chinese-Canadian designer Errolson Hugh and his girlfriend Michaela Sachenbacher founded a studio in the latter's hometown of Berlin, Germany, as design consultants for major outdoor brands. The client list includes NikeLab ACG, Stone Island Shadow Project, Arcteryx Veilance and other representatives of "urban functions" that you know well.
Among them, the Analog MD Clone Jacket designed for Burton Snowboards (embedded in a Sony Walkman, which can be played on the arm), was rated as one of the coolest inventions in 2002 by TIME.
With such a strong design ability, of course, they will not be satisfied with "making a wedding dress for others", so in 2000, they launched the main functional independent brand ACRONYM.
The first series "Kit-1" was launched in 2001, with a limited edition of 120 sets worldwide. This toolbox-like suit contains jackets, backpacks, CDs and manuals and other accessories. The unique and complete design language pokes the G-spot of video games and science fiction movie lovers.
All kinds of windproof and waterproof top fabrics, supplemented by complex design details, and exaggerated costs make the price of ACRONYM single products remain high, but even if they never publicize, they will not affect the consumer enthusiasm of fans.
The principal, Errolson Hugh, has been exposed to industrial design and karate since childhood because of his parents, and his obsession with the science fiction "Neuromancer" (Neuromancer), so when the fantasy images in his mind are concretized into clothing, it presents "urban function". "Ninja" imagery. By the way, William Gibson, the author of "Neuromancer", was also invited to join ACRONYM's team (a model of successful star chasing). Pushing the "TECHWEAR style" to the present height, Errolson Hugh deserves the title of "German techwear godfather".
As mentioned above, "techwear style" is derived from Japanese cyberpunk works, so how can we not mention "hometown"? So we pulled our eyes back to the Eastern Hemisphere.
Who will be the "Godfather of Japanese techwear" will definitely be controversial? It is estimated that someone will nominate Eiichiro Honma, the principal of Nanamica and THE NORTH FACE PURPLE LABEL. As the most orthodox spokesperson of "Urban Outdoor", Mr. Honma has devoted himself to creating a "gentleman's armor" that is not afraid of wind and rain since the beginning of the 21st century.
However, these brands are not visually consistent with the "functional wind" discussed today. Let's review the "standard" again: it has the functionality of doomsday survival, the mobility of walking in the city, and the futuristic sense of fusion into the science fiction scene.
"Humanistic Care", "Urban Survival", and "Doomsday Sense" are the labels of techwear.
Don't be surprised at first, how come to such a country that seems to have nothing to do with function, enthusiasm, and freedom. Let's start with the origin of "Techwear".
Until the end of the 1970s, the main body of men's fashion was custom-made suits and high-end ready-to-wear. An Italian graphic designer decided to "go to the sea" with a passion for pragmatism and clothing innovation.
In the beginning, he just wanted to design some highly mobile fashion styles for middle-class men to wear when they were on vacation outdoors. When the "scientist" became addicted, he decided to open up a more experimental branch, focusing on fabric innovation. He boldly used materials that have nothing to do with clothing. For example, when researching the first fabric, he used stones to soften the military truck tarpaulin on a whim to obtain a new type of windproof fabric, Tela Stella. After that, it is non-stop, creating a large number of fabrics with unique visual effects.
This spoiler in the fashion circle was Massimo Osti, who later changed the trend of menswear history. The first brand he created and the "more experimental branch" were C.P. COMPANY and STONE ISLAND. It was under his impetus that the concept of (Techwear) began to sprout, and outdoor styles were gradually integrated into fashion design.
Everyone has their own "function godfather" in their minds. This article focuses on analyzing the founders of the popular "Urban Techwear" development process.